Andy Knotts' Blog

The stock intake manifold is removed. Removing the EGR valve near the back of the block was a PAIN. Other than that everything was pretty easy and went smoothly. Results:

The stock plastic piece that surrounds the wiring harness here was pretty beat up. I'm going to wrap these in some fresh electrical tape:

So I installed a shaftmasters 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and an autometer boost gauge over the summer but never added those here. This post is just to get caught up on everything.

I decided to use autometer gauges. These have a bad reputation online, but I think that's because of a few things:

• On import forums, they don't have the JDM "appeal" that others do such as Defi.


• Their friend "had one and it broke within a month". A lot of people buy the entry-level gauges which are very cheap and probably not built the best. Autometer also sells way more gauges than most other companies, so basic statistics says that there will be more instances of failure than other companies.

I routed the vacuum/boost host through the grommet in the engine bay by the clutch master cylinder, into the fender, and then into the cabin through the grommet behind the factory fuse box in the kick panel. Before:

Grommets I ran the hose through and installation (ignore the red power wire; that was originally for the backlight, but I decided to tap into the radio wiring harness instead):

The finished product (except I need a wideband O2 to go in the bottom pod):

I also installed a single-piece aluminum driveshaft from Shaftmasters. My stock driveshaft had a rusted yoke transmission input so it was leaking transmission fluid all over the underbody. (My car was converted from an auto to manual by the previous owner and the new driveshaft used must have been left in the elements for a while). The new vs. old:

The install:

And lastly I hope to modify this generic Summit driveshaft loop to fit in the stock location for the carrier bearing (always a good idea with a single piece, don't want a u-joint snapping at speed!):

I had to remove the fuel rail to remove the stock pressure regulator. I'll be waiting to install it once I get my new injectors. In the mean time it could use a good cleaning! (The culprit are the valve cover gaskets, which I hope to replace while I am in here).

I removed the bumper cover and the stock intercooler yesterday. Results:

This is how many bolts were holding the bumper and engine undercover on. No wonder they call MK3 supras tanks!